I have had success incubating the eggs at 70-75° F with the clutch hatching in 169 to 175 days at this temperature range. However at these temperatures there has been an increase in mortality of hatchlings at 2-6 months of age.
At 75°-78° F I had 100% hatch at 127 days but by 8 months of age all of the hatchlings were dead.
The best incubation temperature for sturdy hatchlings that feed vigorously and grow well should be 62°-68° F with hatch occurring at approximately 190 days.
Do not turn the eggs as you would for birds, they must stay same side up until they hatch. Place moist vermiculite or perlite in a sandwich container or deli-cup with pin holes in the top or sides for air. The vermiculite should be moist but not soggy. If you can squeeze water out, it is too wet. If you have a scale that weighs in grams, the best method to mix the substrate is to use equal weights of vermiculite or perlite and water. You want just enough vermiculite to keep the eggs off the bottom of the container and to halfway cover them. Make indentations for the eggs and place them in the vermiculite. Loosely place the cover over the container. I don't snap the lids on because it is too easy to upset the eggs trying to remove the lid.
A Styrofoam box from shipping tropical fish makes a great incubator if you have several females that are laying at one time. If not, you should be able to use a small Styrofoam cooler. Place a bowl of water in the box with the container of eggs to produce a low humidity. Place the incubation box in a spot where the temperature will stay in the desired range and where the box will be undisturbed. An indoor/outdoor digital thermometer that records the min and max temp is great for monitoring the temps. Most have a thin cord with a probe on the end so that you can check the temps without opening the box. It is wise to set up the incubation box before it is needed so that you can find the right place for incubation.
You should open the box and lift the lid of each egg container occasionally to get a fresh air exchange and to check for moldy or failed eggs. If the eggs are not fertile, they will dent, get slimy and turn dark. If they are fertile, in about 3 months you should be able to see the developing babies in the eggs when candled. You can candle the eggs with a bright penlight flashlight.
Shortly before the eggs pip, they will begin to sweat and shrink. It is important to closely monitor at this time, as the baby will need plenty of oxygen while hatching. Do not leave the new hatchling in the incubation box as it could suffocate.
When the eggs begin to sweat & pip I like to move them into a tall Rubbermaid file box with damp paper towels on the bottom. I place the box in a larger Styrofoam box with a heating pad. This way the babies will be contained after they hatch. I have had some clutches hatch in the incubation box and when the lid was lifted I found myself scrambling to catch all the babies as they ran in all directions! It's just much easier for me to move the eggs and save a little chase and the chance of losing stray babies.
