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Caging is really set up to the keeper's preference. One major dichotomy in caging preference is present and it is between those who keep their cages simple and those who make elaborate cages. Most major breeders maintain their animals in relatively simple and basic cages to not only decrease time spent cleaning but also to decrease costs. Keeping things simple also has the advantage of being much more easily sanitized. On the other hand, many private keepers make very elaborate cages. Building or having an elaborate cage built takes time and money and its upkeep takes much more work but the aesthetics are much better.
One big issue for Amazon tree boas housed in glass or acrylic enclosures is how well adjusted the snakes are to people. Amazon tree boas are very alert snakes and the large majority is willing to strike at any slight provocation. Thus, keep in mind how well adjusted your snake is before moving it into such an enclosure. A new Amazon tree boa - fresh from the jungles - will probably spend a lot of time striking at the glass if people or pets keep walking by it. However, most Amazons will adjust to captivity and although they might not calm down completely, they will calm down enough not to strike at the glass or Plexiglass.
Acrylic/Plexiglass: Acrylic (Plexiglass) has become a recently common-use caging material. Acrylic is more shatter resistent than glass but also scratches easier. There are several advantages to acrylic though. It is awfully strong (same material used for large aquariums), easy to work with and join together and comes with a variety of colors from clear to black. Acrylic will also warp under high heat however so that should be taken into consideration
Aquaria: Glass aquaria is probably the most traditional of herp housing. They come in a variety of sizes and shapes, are watertight, and easy to clean. Most glass aquaria do not suit arboreal snakes very well however. They typically lack the vertical space needed. One other major drawback with glass aquaria is that good ventilation is more difficult to maintain, especially considering that a warmer temperature also needs to be maintained.
Melamine: Melamine is simply particle board coated by a waterproof substance similar to your kitchen countertops. The advantage of melamine is that it seems easily availabe and are both available by cage manufacturers or can be done by yourself. It also wipes down quite easily and is quite scratch resistent. Melamine however, is quite heavy and if the joints of the cage are not properly seeled, will bevel and change shape from water damage.
Polyethelene: Probably the most popular arboreal housing systems right now, polyethelene cages have been made famous by Bush Herpetological Supply and Vision Herpetological. They are custom moulded high-impact cages which are easy to clean, lightweight, completely watertight, and come in a variety of sizes. The only possible drawbacks are some of the higher prices for the larger units. However, the smaller, arboreal units are comparable to other caging methods. Some of the more popular models for emeralds are the #C24A and #C28A Neodesha cages made by Bush Herpetological Supply and Model 222 & 422 cages made by Vision Herpetological. These cages are easily heated with heat tape or an overhead light.
Tupperware: No longer are Rubbermaid and Sterlite storage boxes only suitable for clothing or even terrestrial herps. Arboreal enthusiasts have made some of these storage boxes a staple in their collections. These boxes are cheap, watertight and tough. Also, they are slightly opaque giving a bit of security but also allows good visual access to the animals. Holes can be easily drilled through the sides of the boxes for air holes or to attach perches. Another benefit of these boxes is that they are also stackable.
Wood: Wooden cages, along with aquaria are as old as the hobby itself. They are probably still the most popular of housing for amateur and smaller collections and work well for the most part. Wooden cages can look very nice when properly finished. The thing that one needs to make certain is that the wood is properly sealed. This can be done with several different sealants. The most popular sealant is polyurethane which is typically semi-transluscent. Another is simple exterior house paint which works just as well. There is a sealant product known as Nylene® that has been used by some in the aquarium business to seal wooden boxes. I don't know of anyone who has used that in herpetoculture however. Just remember that all cages must be completely aired out before use.
Although Amazon tree boas will thrive when housed with other Amazon tree boas or even other species, it is best not to house individuals together permanently. Because of their constant heightened level of alertness, they are more prone to striking at and biting other animals in the same enclosure. It is also easier to maintain good husbandry records when animals are maintained by themselves. Any problems such as runny feces, regurgitation, etc. can be directly traced back to the only individual in the enclosure.
There are lots of questions as to the minimum size of enclosures for Amazon tree boas. Amazon tree boas are thin snakes and coiled up, do not take up a lot of space. But they are also active animals often foraging actively at night. Some of the size requirments can be met by an increase in the number of perches and thus, surface area to climb over. But there are some basic size requirements for these snakes.
For years, I maintained an Amazon tree boa in a 20-gallon tank without any problems. But this is an enclosure that would now be considered a bit small to most people. A majority of the Corallus keepers agree that their space requirements are slightly less than or equal to that of emerald tree boas. So what is the minimum size for an Amazon tree boa. Truth is, you can probably keep one well in a 10-gallon tank but whether or not that is good for the snake is another question. Probably the most popular enclosures for these snakes now are large plastic tupperware containers such as Rubbermaid and Sterlite. These are often used to house adult Amazon tree boas by others as well as myself. Some of the medium-sized ones are fine for smaller adults but you can also find large tupperware for larger individuals. Dimensionally, the minimum housing requirements seem to be approximately 24" H x 24"W x 18") (6 cubic feet) for an adult. For larger adult animals, it is probably a good idea to push that size up to a 24" cube.
Amazon tree boas are quite tolerant of wide temperature ranges in captivity. Although individuals will survive in temperature ranges between 70°F and 75°F, it is better to bump that temperature range up 5°. Ideally, temperature ranges for Amazon tree boas should range between 75°F and 85°F. It is best to provide a temperature gradient although Amazon tree boas will not always move to their ideal temperature opting to sit on their preferred perch. With lower temperatures, Amazon tree boas will develop respiratory problems and wheezing usually becomes a problem.
One common mistake is the assumption that high humidity levels equals hydration. The humidity level is associated with a high ambient humidity. Because the reptilian skin is water-tight, only a very, very tiny amount of water might enter the animal from the outside environment. The high humidity aids in the slowing of water loss by increasing outside humidity but does not hydrate the animal sufficiently.
Condensation on the cage glass indicates a cage where the ventilation is poor and the wetness is too high. If this is the case, ventilation needs to be improved. Poor ventilation, coupled with warm and wet conditions, promotes bacterial and fungal growth.
What is the proper way to light your snake? A very common method of lighting is via an incandescent light fixture either located inside the cage or fixed outside the cage with a reflector hood. Of course, if you are using glass aquaria or something that receives light well, you might not choose to light the cage at all. If a high wattage bulb is used to provide bright light or heat, remember that Amazon tree boas are very prone to striking. The heat given off by these light sources as well as the snake's dependence on their infrared heat receptors will make Amazon tree boas strike often at the light.
Since snakes swallow whole prey items, they do not need to synthesize Vitamin D as herbivorous reptiles do. Therefor they do not require UV-radiation. Some Corallus keepers and breeders keep their snakes on UV lighting because it is brighter and UV lighting has shown to increase the activity and well being of their animals.
Substrates can cause problems for Amazon tree boas. Because they spend so much time on the ground, they often constrict prey on the ground and swallow prey on the ground. This increases the likelihood of substrate being ingested if the substrate is small enough to be ingested. It is because of this that newspaper or some other one-piece substrate is recommended for Amazon tree boas.
This is of course not to say that other substrates cannot work very well for Amazon tree boas. Firstly, the ingestion of the substrate is not a very common event. Secondly, this is obviously a problem that is encountered in the wild and thus, their system is likely quite tolerant of accidental ingestions. Common substrates for Amazon tree boas include 50/50 peat moss and sand, cypress mulch, as well as shavings. Cedar wood chips should be avoided as a substrate because they will emit noxious fumes. Similarily, pine shavings have also been known to be somewhat similar as far as effects go. Other good and commonly used cage substrates include paper towels and bath towels. Be careful with using bath towels in that snakes might strike and get their long teeth tangled on the weaving of the towels.
Caging needs for Amazon tree boas can be easily met by a couple of essentials. One, a water dish - preferably a large water dish. Although Amazon tree boas inhabit a variety of areas, they are still associated with relatively high humidity and this can be at least partially imitated with a large water dish which provides a large surface area of water. And two, a plethera of perches criss-crossing or as Cord Offerman puts it, a "jungle gym" of perches. Amazon tree boas make much use of horizontal forks in branches as well as branches which meet and cross each other.
Perches: Perches can be fastened onto the cage several different ways. For wooden or plastic cages, perches can be attached via screws or nails from the outside of the cage although this does create holes in the cage. Another option which makes cleaning and maintenance easy is to use perch holders. Perch holders can be purchased or built. These holders are the ones sold to hold wooden closet dowels in. Some companies (BARRS) also make plastic perch holders. You can also custom make your own perch holder. The removable perch allows for removal of the Amazon tree boa simply by removing the perch. As many who have tried to remove an unwilling Amazon tree boa will tell you, their long bodies, tendency to bite and ability to grab on to branches with any part of their body make them difficult to separate from many perches. Other methods of fixing perches include using silicon all around the branch to fix it in place (not for wood cages) and simply pinning the branch in the cage. Snuggly fitting the perches (branches are most common) into place is more feasible with the lighter-weighted Amazon tree boa but make sure branches are secure with screws or cable-ties so that they do not collapse and accidentally crush the snake.
Plants: Plants make an attractive addition to any cage but also can serve several purposes in the cage. Aesthetically, it is pretty amazing to see a brightly colored Amazon tree boa coiled up amongst or beside great green leaves or flowers. Live plants also help maintain air quality as well as higher humidity levels. Plant lights can be used in a fluorescent fixture to help growth without natural sunlight exposure. Some live plants that work great for tree boas are Pothos, philodendron, Monstera, bromeliads, among many others. Pothos and philodendron are vine plants and will climb all over the enclosure providing a very pretty cage. Be careful, as plants have been accidentally ingested before following a strike that also took some of the plant. Pothos is a cheap and popular houseplant and given the opportunity, will thrive well. Plastic or silk plants or vines are also great for cages. They do not help maintain humidity but can be easily manipulated and can be used as cover for the snake.
© 1998 - 2002 Paul Huang unless otherwise noted
