Epicrates cenchria maurus
- Iniciador del tema crotalus76
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crotalus76
Well-Known Member
alejandro
Well-Known Member
Se ven muy gorditas, parece que les han dado bien de comer.
Supongo que serán de cría nacional, cuéntanos algo de ellas.
Será un artefacto visual, pero la que está en el tupper de la izquierda, tiene alguna malformación o algo así en el dorso, no se, se le ve una pequeña zona como desviada, aunque supongo que será cuestión de la fotografía, ya nos dirás.
A cuidarlas, que con esas tendrás una boitas de buen carácter y de una talla muy manejable, aunque es más que posible que ya tengas experiencia con ellas en tu pais de origen, me equivoco??.
Saludos,
Supongo que serán de cría nacional, cuéntanos algo de ellas.
Será un artefacto visual, pero la que está en el tupper de la izquierda, tiene alguna malformación o algo así en el dorso, no se, se le ve una pequeña zona como desviada, aunque supongo que será cuestión de la fotografía, ya nos dirás.
A cuidarlas, que con esas tendrás una boitas de buen carácter y de una talla muy manejable, aunque es más que posible que ya tengas experiencia con ellas en tu pais de origen, me equivoco??.
Saludos,
Antonio Ortega
Well-Known Member
hola muy bonitas las dos.
Alejandro yo creo que es el efecto del agua pues parece que se esta dando un bañito
un saludo
Alejandro yo creo que es el efecto del agua pues parece que se esta dando un bañito
un saludo
Hola,
aqui tienes el caresheet en Ingles.
Un saludo
Steve
Choosing A Snake
Firstly consider the species you wish to keep. Colombians (Epicrates cenchria maurus) are probably the easiest, hardiest and cheapest. Brazilians are also relatively easy, and the cheapest of the ‘red’ sub-species, with Peruvian (Epicrates cenchria gaigei) and Marajo Island (Epicrates cenchria barbouri) being considerably more expensive. Argentinean (Epicrates cenchria alverezi) Rainbow Boas are not suitable as a first snake, but will be no problem to an experienced keeper. Just about all the other sub-species are of equal difficulty and will be easily kept by experienced keepers, but are not totally
suitable to the first time keeper.
When purchasing a snake always try to buy a captive-bred hatchling or grown on younger snake. Wild caught specimens are often associated with very high level of parasitic infection and the cost of treatment may be very high, even for the experienced keeper and I can say this from personal experience. Wild caught animals may take a long time to settle to captivity, if ever, and rarely take well to handling.
Captive-bred snakes have a more laid back disposition and do not have the illnesses associated with those from the wild. Age of specimen is also a factor to consider and wild caught animals, if fully grown, may be well into old age at time of purchase.
Look for an alert and defensive, but not aggressive, hatchling. Eyes should be clear and bright, as should be the skin unless in slough. Avoid snakes that are shedding badly, which is usually a sign of poor health or poor husbandry. Markings should be clear and bright in youngsters and display the rainbow iridescence the species is known for, and named after.
Housing/ Furnishing/ Substrate
There are many different vivaria available on the market, but when choosing one to house a Rainbow Boa the high humidity of the environment must be considered. Plastic or fibreglass vivaria are ideal, but sometimes lack adequate ventilation and are more costly than wooden vivaria. Wooden vivaria are fine so long as all joints are well sealed with aquarium sealant or similar. Glass fronted dark wood vivaria are probably the best choice for most keepers, but ensure the vivaria has well-sealed ventilation also. A vivaria of 4ft long x 1.5ft deep x 2ft high (120cm x 45cm x 60cm high) is adequate for the largest adult and 4ft long x 2ft deep x 2ft high (120cm x 60cm x 60cm high) for an average sized pair.
Many substrates are also available, but the safest and most natural, in my experience, is Orchid Bark.
Hides must be provided to avoid stress, artificial plants, artificial caves, plant pots, upturned seed trays with cut out entrances, etc may be used. If humidity is difficult to maintain an enclosed hide filled with regularly damped moss may provide a high humidity area to help sloughing and general health. Any correctly sized plastic food storage container may be used, with an appropriately sized entrance cut into it.
Many Rainbow Boas enjoy climbing branches or similar, while others will never climb such items in the vivaria. This appears to be more down to the individual than the sub-species, in my experience, though their inclusion will create a more natural looking vivarium.
Heating/ Lighting - for more indepth information click here
The general temperature requirements of Rainbow Boas are as follows, details about different sub-species and different set-ups may be found buy clicking the above "Heating/ Lighting" link. Rainbow Boas should be provided with a basking area of about 29.5°C (85°F), this should not exceed 32°C (90°F) for any length of time as this can be harmful. The ambient temperature of the vivarium should be about 25.5°C (78°F), dropping at night to around 23°C (74°F).
Heat may be supplied in various ways and the method chosen is down to personal taste, funds and a number of other factors. Here I will assume a single set-up to be kept. For more in depth information and a discussion of multiple set-ups click the link above.
In a single set-up heat is probably best provided by a ceramic heater (well guarded) and a pulse proportional thermostat with a day-night function. Heat mats are not suitable for Rainbow Boas, if sited under the vivaria the heat transfer is to poor and if sited within the vivaria these may lead to very serious burns to your snake.
Lighting of your snake is also down to personal preference and location of the vivarium. Rainbow Boas like about 10 hours a daylight, but this does not have to be particularly strong, so if the vivarium is positioned with a natural light source no artificial lighting is required. However you will not see your snake very well. So a light source may be provided, avoid very bright lights, such as that given by fluorescent fittings, as Rainbow Boas appear to be stressed by such lights. Probably best is a low wattage (60w) spot light situated near the ceramic heater.
The question of whether snakes need UV is often posed and I can only talk of my own experience and certain anecdotal evidence. I have never provided UV to a snake in my 30years of reptile keeping and have never had an animal present an illness related to lack of UV exposure. I have also heard that UV exposure in certain species has lead to death from cancerous tumours. I am not sure if there is any scientific evidence to support the use or otherwise of UV, but in my experience it seems unnecessary.
Water/ Humidity
Rainbow Boas must be kept humid and enjoy long periods of soaking, even when not in slough (shedding).
A water bowl large enough for the snake to lay in should be provided and changed regularly, as Rainbow Boas have a tendency to defecate in their water bowls and it is also the water they will drink from.
The vivaria should be misted daily to try and maintain a relative humidity of about 70%.
Feeding
Rainbow Boas take well to defrosted prey and should be feed with appropriately sized rodents. Offering the occasional day old chick, quail or other foodstuffs, according to the size of the individual, this will give a varied diet.
Rainbow Boas are often over fed and many individuals will take food readily in excess, this is especially the case in the Colombian (Epicrates cenchria maurus) Rainbow Boa. Feeding in the adult should be about once every 14 days or a smaller meal once a week depending on your personal preference. Young Rainbow Boas should be fed weekly and times between feeds gradually lengthen nearer to adulthood.
Temperament/ Handling/ Longevity
There are many different opinions about the temperament of Rainbow Boas, on the whole I find then a relatively good snake to handle. They may become stressed if held out of their home for a long period or if there is a lot of movement around them. These are not snakes to be "played" with or passed around friends, but will enjoy safe quiet handling. Handling should however not be excessive, once or twice a week is probably enough for most individuals. Though I do have snakes that seem to enjoy the experience more than many of the others and may safely be handled more often. It is a matter of getting to know your snake and what it, and you, are happy with.
Most sub-species of Rainbow Boa will live for 20 to 25 years in captivity.
aqui tienes el caresheet en Ingles.
Un saludo
Steve
Choosing A Snake
Firstly consider the species you wish to keep. Colombians (Epicrates cenchria maurus) are probably the easiest, hardiest and cheapest. Brazilians are also relatively easy, and the cheapest of the ‘red’ sub-species, with Peruvian (Epicrates cenchria gaigei) and Marajo Island (Epicrates cenchria barbouri) being considerably more expensive. Argentinean (Epicrates cenchria alverezi) Rainbow Boas are not suitable as a first snake, but will be no problem to an experienced keeper. Just about all the other sub-species are of equal difficulty and will be easily kept by experienced keepers, but are not totally
suitable to the first time keeper.
When purchasing a snake always try to buy a captive-bred hatchling or grown on younger snake. Wild caught specimens are often associated with very high level of parasitic infection and the cost of treatment may be very high, even for the experienced keeper and I can say this from personal experience. Wild caught animals may take a long time to settle to captivity, if ever, and rarely take well to handling.
Captive-bred snakes have a more laid back disposition and do not have the illnesses associated with those from the wild. Age of specimen is also a factor to consider and wild caught animals, if fully grown, may be well into old age at time of purchase.
Look for an alert and defensive, but not aggressive, hatchling. Eyes should be clear and bright, as should be the skin unless in slough. Avoid snakes that are shedding badly, which is usually a sign of poor health or poor husbandry. Markings should be clear and bright in youngsters and display the rainbow iridescence the species is known for, and named after.
Housing/ Furnishing/ Substrate
There are many different vivaria available on the market, but when choosing one to house a Rainbow Boa the high humidity of the environment must be considered. Plastic or fibreglass vivaria are ideal, but sometimes lack adequate ventilation and are more costly than wooden vivaria. Wooden vivaria are fine so long as all joints are well sealed with aquarium sealant or similar. Glass fronted dark wood vivaria are probably the best choice for most keepers, but ensure the vivaria has well-sealed ventilation also. A vivaria of 4ft long x 1.5ft deep x 2ft high (120cm x 45cm x 60cm high) is adequate for the largest adult and 4ft long x 2ft deep x 2ft high (120cm x 60cm x 60cm high) for an average sized pair.
Many substrates are also available, but the safest and most natural, in my experience, is Orchid Bark.
Hides must be provided to avoid stress, artificial plants, artificial caves, plant pots, upturned seed trays with cut out entrances, etc may be used. If humidity is difficult to maintain an enclosed hide filled with regularly damped moss may provide a high humidity area to help sloughing and general health. Any correctly sized plastic food storage container may be used, with an appropriately sized entrance cut into it.
Many Rainbow Boas enjoy climbing branches or similar, while others will never climb such items in the vivaria. This appears to be more down to the individual than the sub-species, in my experience, though their inclusion will create a more natural looking vivarium.
Heating/ Lighting - for more indepth information click here
The general temperature requirements of Rainbow Boas are as follows, details about different sub-species and different set-ups may be found buy clicking the above "Heating/ Lighting" link. Rainbow Boas should be provided with a basking area of about 29.5°C (85°F), this should not exceed 32°C (90°F) for any length of time as this can be harmful. The ambient temperature of the vivarium should be about 25.5°C (78°F), dropping at night to around 23°C (74°F).
Heat may be supplied in various ways and the method chosen is down to personal taste, funds and a number of other factors. Here I will assume a single set-up to be kept. For more in depth information and a discussion of multiple set-ups click the link above.
In a single set-up heat is probably best provided by a ceramic heater (well guarded) and a pulse proportional thermostat with a day-night function. Heat mats are not suitable for Rainbow Boas, if sited under the vivaria the heat transfer is to poor and if sited within the vivaria these may lead to very serious burns to your snake.
Lighting of your snake is also down to personal preference and location of the vivarium. Rainbow Boas like about 10 hours a daylight, but this does not have to be particularly strong, so if the vivarium is positioned with a natural light source no artificial lighting is required. However you will not see your snake very well. So a light source may be provided, avoid very bright lights, such as that given by fluorescent fittings, as Rainbow Boas appear to be stressed by such lights. Probably best is a low wattage (60w) spot light situated near the ceramic heater.
The question of whether snakes need UV is often posed and I can only talk of my own experience and certain anecdotal evidence. I have never provided UV to a snake in my 30years of reptile keeping and have never had an animal present an illness related to lack of UV exposure. I have also heard that UV exposure in certain species has lead to death from cancerous tumours. I am not sure if there is any scientific evidence to support the use or otherwise of UV, but in my experience it seems unnecessary.
Water/ Humidity
Rainbow Boas must be kept humid and enjoy long periods of soaking, even when not in slough (shedding).
A water bowl large enough for the snake to lay in should be provided and changed regularly, as Rainbow Boas have a tendency to defecate in their water bowls and it is also the water they will drink from.
The vivaria should be misted daily to try and maintain a relative humidity of about 70%.
Feeding
Rainbow Boas take well to defrosted prey and should be feed with appropriately sized rodents. Offering the occasional day old chick, quail or other foodstuffs, according to the size of the individual, this will give a varied diet.
Rainbow Boas are often over fed and many individuals will take food readily in excess, this is especially the case in the Colombian (Epicrates cenchria maurus) Rainbow Boa. Feeding in the adult should be about once every 14 days or a smaller meal once a week depending on your personal preference. Young Rainbow Boas should be fed weekly and times between feeds gradually lengthen nearer to adulthood.
Temperament/ Handling/ Longevity
There are many different opinions about the temperament of Rainbow Boas, on the whole I find then a relatively good snake to handle. They may become stressed if held out of their home for a long period or if there is a lot of movement around them. These are not snakes to be "played" with or passed around friends, but will enjoy safe quiet handling. Handling should however not be excessive, once or twice a week is probably enough for most individuals. Though I do have snakes that seem to enjoy the experience more than many of the others and may safely be handled more often. It is a matter of getting to know your snake and what it, and you, are happy with.
Most sub-species of Rainbow Boa will live for 20 to 25 years in captivity.
crotalus76
Well-Known Member
Ciertamente Alejandro han comido ya un par de veces, estas gotos justo despues de su segunda comida hace un par de dias.alejandro dijo:
Y sip Epicrates c. maurus NC 2005 de Reptilmania.
Me encuentro enamoradisimo de ellas.
Pues si, es un efecto de refraccion y como dice Antonio Ortega estaba dando se un bañito y estan en perfecto estado.alejandro dijo:
No te equivocas, estas NC son unas verdaderas joyas (intentos de morde = 0) por el momentoalejandro dijo:
, aunque no e tan doloroso es mas la sorpresa... En Venezuela tuve la suerte de recolectar prcticamente la camada entera de una que el dio por parir en el patio de mi casa, 32 pequeñas que mantuve un año y poco, hasta su reingreso a la naturaleza en lugar seguro. La mayoria en el patio de casa otras tuvieron suerte de aparecerle a vecinos que sabian de mi y me avisaban para recogerla, alguna no tuvo la misma suerte.Por otro lado, la diferencia radica que al ser de la misma zona donde vivia, no necesite ajustar temperaturas ni humedad y ahora aca en España en relacion a eso aun en pañales estoy... (con la poca experiencia que me ha dado la tenencia de artropodos de diferentes latitudes desde hace un par de año).
Mil gracias Steve... ahora a pelearme con el diccionario para complementar conocimiento para el correcto cuidado y tenencia de esta linda parejita.Al llegar media 73 y 76 cm respectivamente.
Saludos y gracias !!!
Adjuntos
Pietrezuelas
Well-Known Member
Una preciosidad, sí señor Me encantan!! A disfrutarlas!!!
Un saludo!
Me encantan!! A disfrutarlas!!!Un saludo!
crotalus76
Well-Known Member
crotalus76
Well-Known Member
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