El problema principal, aunque no el único posible origen de los prolapsos rectales, es la deshidratación, combinada con estres, comidas excesivas en tamaño y frecuencia, falta de ejercicio, etc..
Podeis echarle un ojo:
http://www.finegtps.com/Care_sheets.html#SolvingCommonProblems
5/ Rectal Prolapse
This problem is not common in properly maintained collections. However, most keepers with multiple animals will experience prolapse at some point. Even veteran keepers experience this condition from time to time, and the occurrence of prolapse does not necessarily indicate that there are husbandry problems. Actually, chondros prolapse part of the bowel as a normal part of defecation. The problems arise when the rectal tissue fails to retract, and begins to swell. This looks like a pink bubble or blob of tissue protruding outside of the vent. Left untreated prolapse can be fatal. Conditions that may lead to prolapse include stress, temperatures too high, dehydration, feeding too large a meal or feeding too often, lack of exercise, and in the case of babies, eating unnatural food items. (It is very doubtful that pink mice make up wild neonates' diets.) However, prolapse can occur for no apparent reason even under good conditions, so if you are doing things correctly and experience a prolapse, don't beat yourself up...they happen to experienced keepers too. Animals that repeatedly prolapse are most likely suffering from deeper health issues.
The first order of business is to keep the swollen tissues from drying out. Place the snake in an appropriate size container (such as a deli cup for babies) with a small amount of warm water in it. Be sure that the water isn't deep enough to drown the chondro - use just enough to keep the swollen tissue moist. Make a thick sugar and water paste and apply some to the tissues. Often this will cause the prolapse to retract within a few hours, or overnight. An eye dropper can be useful in applying the sugar paste. Sometimes the tissue will go down in size but not fully retract. Use a clean blunt tool such as an appropriate size sexing probe, and gently push the tissue back into the body cavity. Push the tissue completely into the body, but not farther than is needed to get it all reinserted. If you aren't comfortable with doing this, or if no improvement has been observed within 24 hours, see let a qualified veterinarian. In really bad cases, mild anesthesia will be needed to relax the muscles enough for reinsertion. Sometimes a purse-string suture is needed to retain the prolapse while things heal.
Withhold food from the recovering animal for at least a couple of weeks and then start with very small food items. Watch for a normal defecation, and then slowly work back up to normal meal size and feeding frequency. Most cases of prolapse look much worse than they really are, and usually the condition is very treatable if caught early. Adult females can make a full recovery and go on to lay eggs without complications, as long as sufficient time is allowed for complete healing.
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How do I deal with Rectal Prolapse?
When I first started building my collection of Chondros my biggest concern was the belief that chondros are a species that just continually prolapse. In fact this is not true. It does happen but with a frequency that makes it of little concern. It turns out this is not a problem I’ve had to deal with. If caught early enough, it can easily be fixed. A piece of stool caught in the rectal tissue can look like a full-blown prolapse. First be certain that it is not a piece of stool that became lodged. After a bowel movement, if a small piece of stool becomes lodged in the end of the bowel (that is outside the body where there is no muscle to facilitate its passage), this can easily be massaged out and what is left is tissue (almost paper thin) that immediately retracts.
In the case of a baby prolapsing, the first thing to do is place it in about a quarter inch of water with a ball of paper towels inside to create a little island for the animal to lie on. Allow about 15 min. for the animal to drink, should it need to, and then add sugar to the water. After the animal settles on the paper towel “Island”, pour sugar directly on the rectal tissue and paper towel. The tissue should retract on its own overnight. If it doesn’t then it must be pushed back in manually. Rinse the tissue of the sugar prior to insertion. Keep in mind the tissue you’re working with is like a sock inside out. The tissue further out is what goes inside the deepest. Break off the end of a Q-tip (the paper kind not the plastic), smooth out the end by spinning it in some Neosporin on a table top, and gently push the bowel back inside by placing the Q-tip in the rectum. You may need to insert the Q-tip up to an inch to get the tissue back inside. If the animal immediately pushes the tissue back out again, a very small piece of electrical tape will be needed to hold it in place. After the tissue is back in, place the tape over the vent. (It is a better idea to place the tape right above the vent; this will keep the tissue intact but still allow fluid to pass). This should not be left on for more than 12 hours; otherwise the animal will not be able to pass fluids. (Generally within 12 hours the swelling subsides and remains intact) Then remove the tape using a Q-tip with vegetable or mineral oil.
In the event of an adult prolapsing, the tissue will have to be reinserted and may need a purse string suture to hold it in place. It’s best to have this done by a qualified veterinarian. It’s a good idea to hold off on food for a few weeks until feeding resumes, but be sure to give smaller food items. I believe there are a number of causes of this problem. Most of the prolapses with which I have assisted were from imported animals. Parasite loads were likely to have been the dominant factor. I believe dehydration and stress can contribute to the problem. An animal that is stressed does not drink normally. Also be sure your animals have not gone into the “Zone”, a state in which they simply don’t move. Pull them out and make them move around a bit. Offer them some fresh water and/or put them back close to the water, or soak them to be sure they are drinking. *Please note this is for use in an emergency, a qualified veterinarian should always be consulted when possible.
Espero sirva de orientación, si hay problemas con el inglés, lo comentas y echo una mano.
Saludos,
Tambien baraja la posibilidad d eque sea un defecto congénito, quizá producto de la endogamia; algo con lo que no estoy de acuerdo ya que esos ejemplares tenían origenes muy diferentes (distintos criadores de distintos paises) incluso son "morfos" diferentes (Aru y Biak).
